Traditional Handsewn Kilts

 

Caring for your Keltoi Kilt

 

IRONING/PRESSING: A woollen kilt rarely needs pressing. If you remember to “sweep” the pleats downward whenever you sit, there should be few wrinkles that won’t fall away when standing. This is the same method a lady uses when sitting in a skirt.

 

When a kilt does need pressing, here’s what to do (and not to do):

1)      NEVER use an ironing board! Instead, lay a large towel on a large flat surface, like a kitchen table.

2)      Lay the kilt down and spread out the aprons, making sure the pleats are lined up parallel with each other.

3)      Set the iron to “wool/steam” and use a pressing cloth (a plain pillowcase works well). Using a spray bottle to spray the pressing cloth. Place the pressing cloth on the pleats (or other part of the kilt such as the aprons) and press firmly for a few seconds.

4)      NEVER press the sewn portion of the pleats. It may look wrinkled when lying flat, but that’s because it isn’t wrapped around a cylinder (i.e. you).

5)      Repeat if necessary.

6)      NEVER iron the kilt without a pressing cloth. If you do, the wool will burn and become shiny (or worse).

7)     NEVER take a kilt to the dry cleaners, unless they have experience with kilts. Their pressing machines aren’t big enough and tend to distort the pleats.

 

CLEANING: A woollen kilt almost never needs to be washed. (Really!) Airing it out after wear and promptly hanging it up will usually suffice. If possible, gently spot clean any spills and stains.

 

1)      If you do have to wash the entire kilt, here’s what to do:

2)      Fill a bathtub with cold water and add Woolite© or similar wool-care product.

3)      Gently swish the kilt around a few times. DO NOT SCRUB! Agitation (and heat) is what causes wool to shrink and become otherwise damaged.

4)      Rinse under cold water until water runs clear.

5)      Hang to dry (not in sunlight), taking care that it does not sag in the middle (or anywhere else).

6)      Repress when dry, as per instructions above.

 

Care of Kilt Hose

 

House of Cheviot Kilt Hose are made of a blend of merino wool, acrylic, nylon, and lycra. According to the manufacturer’s instructions, they are machine washable at 40° Celsius wool wash. An alternate method (which works well for other hose) would be to gently hand wash in cold water and hang to dry. I personally use baby shampoo for this task.

 

Instructions for Wearing your Highland Regalia

 

1)   Put on your hose. Ensure ribbing is straight and not wavy.

2)   Put on your garter flashes. Select a colour which matches your kilt. If in doubt, red is the standard. With the ribbons facing the outside of the leg, wrap garters around calf. Usually these are placed where the ribbing pattern ends and the sock top begins. Fold sock top over to conceal the strap. A double fold is ideal: fold down once and then fold back up again. The top of the hose should be about three fingers width from the outside bone of the knee.

3)   Place your sgian dubh into your right sock (or left if you are left-handed), leaving about half of the handle exposed. Visually, it should bisect the two ribbons of the garter flash.

4)   Put on your shoes. If wearing Ghillie Brogues: Tie a normal twist and tighten the laces. Twist 3-6 more times. Put the laces round your ankle and bring to the front. Tie into a normal knot (or double knot). The knot can be worn to the front or the outside of the leg. 

5)     Put on your shirt and tie. When wearing a standard necktie, select a plain-coloured one. (i.e. no pattern) As the necktie is the focal point of colour on a man’s suit, the kilt is the focal point on a Highland outfit. Pick a colour that matches one of the colours in the kilt. If unsure, grey is the standard, regardless of kilt colour. Make sure you tie the tie a little shorter than you would when wearing trousers. The tip of the tie must reach the top of the kilt, not lower.

6)   Put on your kilt. With pleats to the back, take the under apron strap and feed it through the hole and buckle on your left. Buckle the outer apron to the right. The bottom of the kilt should rest at the middle (or higher) of your kneecap, and the top should rest above your navel.

7)   Put on your kilt pin. The pin DOES NOT hold the kilt closed, it is there to weigh down the outer apron only. It is usually placed three inches up from the bottom and three inches in from the fringe.

8)   Put on your sporran. With buckle to the back, the sporran should rest about three fingers below the front of the waistcoat or kilt belt (if wearing one).

9)   Put on your kilt belt. (If not wearing a waistcoat.) Kilt belts are 2¼”-2½” wide and are affixed with a large decorative pewter buckle. A ‘normal’ men’s belt is too narrow (1½”) to be worn with a kilt as the kilt’s actual waistline is located about 2” down from the top of the kilt, so a narrow belt would cinch the kilt above this, creating a very undesirable effect.  Kilt belts are to worn only when NOT wearing a waistcoat or sweater.

10) Put on jacket and leave unbuttoned.

11) Put on fly plaid or day plaid. Take one corner of the fly plaid and fold the two outer corners inward, a bit like a paper airplane. Turn over and pass the held end through the epaulette of your jacket. Pull down to breast level and affix with a brooch. Some people do not like the brooch piercing the jacket, so instead affix the plaid underneath with safety pins. A day plaid is simply folded lengthwise until about 12” wide and then draped over the shoulder. That’s it. To prevent it from slipping, some people affix the day plaid to their jacket with concealed safety pins.

12) Put on hat (optional). The Balmoral is usually worn with the brim about ½” from the eyebrows with the cockade over the left temple. The cloth portion of the hat is pulled to the right. The Glengarry was traditionally worn on a slant with 1" above the left brow and ½” above the right. Today it if often worn in a straight manner.