Traditional Handsewn Kilts

S YOU WILL SEE BELOW, I OFFER FAR MORE THAN the typical eight or nine yard knife-pleated kilt found in most Scottish shops. This allows you to choose a kilt that better suits your needs, whatever they may be.

All of my kilts are made from 100% worsted wool (or tweed) in either tartan or a solid colour. Solid coloured kilts are traditionally favoured by the Irish and the Irish diaspora. To read more about Irish kilts click here.

My kilts are hand-pleated and hand-sewn. This method renders the stitching almost invisible and is an integral part of what makes a traditional kilt. No machine stitching is done on any portion. Regardless of style, each kilt will feature the following:

• Made-to-measure with 5 cm (2") or 10 cm (4") rise The kilt will be made to your measurements: length, waist, and hips. Rise is the portion that extends above your natural waist and allows the kilt to remain secure. A high (military) rise often covers the bottom ribs.
• Pleated to the sett (Knife-Pleated Deluxe) or to the stripe (all others) To the sett preserves the tartan pattern in the pleats. To the stripe (or regimental) selects one stripe and centres it on each pleat. 
• Two or three 32 mm (1¼") cast metal buckles with leather straps and tartan casing The casing will match exactly when pleated to the sett, but not when pleated to the stripe. (In any case, the straps cover the casing.) A third (hip) strap is available, but I recommend against it. It serves no purpose and can damage the kilt when buckled too tightly. (Something which happens frequently.)
• Choice of apron fringe: double offset, triple offset, no fringe. Double offset fringe is most popular, while no fringe is more historic.
  
• True selvedge bottom (Tweed kilts are hemmed) Tartan fabric has a finished edge which needs no hem. Tweed, especially herringbone, does.
• Full cloth lining in black or off-white This covers the canvas reinforcement. I use a cotton blend which breathes and protects you from the canvas underneath. Black is most commonly used, while off-white is found on military kilts and those made from white-based tartans. 
• Stabilizer and hair canvas reinforcement The stabilizer is a cloth strip which prevents the waist of the kilt from stretching when tightening the straps. The hair canvas  helps the pleats maintain their shape and relieves the stress placed on pleat stitching.
• Keepers: sporran loops, belt loops, or brace buttons Sporran loops are centred on the back of the kilt and are 1 cm wide by 5 cm long. The sporran strap is passed through the loops and this helps your sporran stay in place. Belt loops are much the same except longer. Many men pass both their belt and sporran straps through these loops. I recommend against belt loops as they will distort the bottom of the kilt over time. The belt is really ornamental and not necessary to hold the kilt up. Braces (suspenders) buttons are another option: two centred at the back, two sewn on the underapron, and two sewn to the underside of the apron.  
• Two loop hangers These are loops sewn into the waistband. They are especially useful for temporarily hanging your kilt from a peg. When the kilt is folded (pleats outward), the loops will overlap.
• Matching tartan garter flashes Garter flashes are used to hold your hose up. They are two strips of matching tartan sewn onto a twill tape band.

Prices are in Canadian funds and vary to reflect fabric prices from different mills. Canadians must pay GST (5%). Ontario residents must instead pay HST (13%).

Please note that measurements 124.5 cm (49") or higher will incur a surcharge.